Wednesday, November 18, 2009

The Prisoner of Chillon (Castle), Switzerland. And Poem, Lord Byron 1788-1824


Here is the castle at Chillon, just northeast of little Villeneuve on the Swiss Riviera, on the road heading for more famous and pricey Montreux.

There is noise here now.  The autostrasse passes nearby, so people don't have to tarry with past things any more.Read the poem slowly, aloud, to sense the history. We start here with the dungeon, where the prisoner Bonivard was held all those years, at water level - not underground, but here just at water level, where he feared each storm would flood it all.   

With the old print of the google book, you may prefer an easier read, try ://classiclit.about.com/library/bl-etexts/lbyron/bl-lbyron-prisoner.htm.

The castle is modest in size. But it has been well maintained. There is the bridge, that may once have been a drawbridge.  Get there right at 9AM, before the buses.


Get right to it, and head down.
.

Part of the dungeon area was for storage, with the casks of supplies, including wind, and the narrow arrow slit for defense on the lake side.


Chillon is a small chateau, and tourists are free to wander anywhere with unlocked doors.  Tours stay together, which is far less fun.


It has been well-maintained.  An impressive feature is the rock bed, that forms the flooring at the lower level.  There is no under-water level that we could see.  Imagine the boats of provisions anchoring just outside; or invaders trying to slip by.




Supplies would have been brought to this water level, and unloaded for the castle's needs, but that room and its gates to the water were out of reach for the prisoner. See his story below.


There is a noose hanging in one of the rooms, but hardly original  For more, see ://www.wisdomportal.com/Inspiration/CastleChillon.html/


Now, read the short sonnet about Chillon, also by Byron, at ://www.english.upenn.edu/Projects/knarf/Byron/chillon.html/  See the alternative spelling, Francois de Bonnivard.  This site says that the narrative by Byron, supposedly the prisoner speaking, is fictitious.  See ://switzerland.isyours.com/E/guide/lake_geneva/chillon.history.html/  Probably.  How would anyone know?

 How to see the Castle of Chillon, on Lake Geneva, without first reading Lord Byron's poem about the prisoner.

Read first. Meet a monk-scholar from Geneva named Francois Bonivard, who was chained there from 1532 to 1536 or  1530-1536, depending on the records; and during the Catholic-Protestant Troubles there; and also at a time when he was accused of inciting the Genevese, along the lake, to rebel against the Duke of Savoy, only being released when the Bernese from the north pressed that far south with their newfangled contraption, mobile artillery.
.

Varying accounts, see ://switzerland.isyours.com/E/guide/lake_geneva/chillon.history.html/ for the   The poem is now a google book and free for the taking: go to The Prisoner of Chillon, Lord Byron.
 .
The Bonivard (sometimes spelled Bonnivard) family was persecuted during this era of Reformation-CounterReformation, and then the 30 years' war between Papists and Reformers who could not stand each other.  Of the three Bonnivard brothers sent to Chillon, with other family members already deceased, the prisoner here is the only survivor.

Alternate scenario: He was released when nobody cared anymore what anybody else believed, according to the religious accounts, not the social change accounts.  Good choice. Faith-based conflicts get nowhere, then or now. Just leave people be. In the end, I am the guns. I cover all?

Sunday, November 15, 2009

Villeneuve - Lake Geneva, Swiss Riviera, Lac Leman, Deep Lake Breath After Alps

Hairpin turns take their toll in the Alps. Go slow, but keep up, edge around the bends, no passing but the other guy just might be, where you can't see. Then, down, and flat finally, and Lake Geneva. To the French, it is Lac Leman. Half of the lake is Swiss, half French, with the Swiss city, Geneva, at that little pointy bay, a jutty-out place that looks like it should belong to France, dipping down at the eastern end. Lake Geneva is a traditional respite, resort area, long history of boundary changes, castles; and also a center of intellectual and political ferment through the centuries.

Here is Villeneuve. A gateway, quiet town. It was founded in 1215 by Thomas I of Savoy who owned nearby Castle Chillon, some two kilometers away, and lived there seasonally. Villeneuve became a supporting port, and a place for a tollbooth and warehouses.  See ://www.chillon.ch/en/index-La%2Bgrande%2Bhistoire-0-0.html/

Mountains behind, finally.
.

Villeneuve begins, at this end of the lake, the area known as the Swiss version of the Riviera. Romans stopped the ancient Swiss Helvetian tribes from moving south into France, and contained them in Switzerland until Roman Rule faded in the 400's. This was not an animus - just practical. There was relative peace during the Roman occupations. All the major Swiss cities stem from Helvetian Celt or Roman settlements: Lausanne, Zurich, Geneva, Basel. Only Bern emerged after the Romans. See ://history-switzerland.geschichte-schweiz.ch/switzerland-age-romans.html/

That history of Switzerland site gives a full listing of Roman towns and military outposts, and when they reached their peak size and influence, with the linguistic suffixes that identify them, as opposed to the linguistic clues for the Celts.



With day ending, why go further into the major resort of Montreux where prices will be higher, and the lake the same.  Looking toward Montreux, from Villeneuve here, the view from the long dock here is even spoiled by the autobahn stretching above the old Castle of Chillon there toward Montreux,  below the arches.  


This was a market town, and the Old Town still has its medieval character. Stop and look for it: go inland a block or two, rather than merely driving through on the main road.




When choosing a hotel room, aim for the back, without the view, where it is quieter.  You will close the drapes anyway.



Wednesday, November 11, 2009

Swiss Side: Gran San Bernardo Pass, Great Saint Bernard Pass, Alps

The Gran San Bernardo Pass
Great Saint Bernard Pass
Swiss Side

See Part I, from Italian Side, at Italy Road Ways, Italian Side, Alps, Gran San Bernardo Pass. FN 1

The San Bernardo Pass crosses the Alps from Italy to Switzerlandl and we took that south to north route.  We started at Aosta, in Italy, and then went to Montigny, in Switzerland. The Romans called the primary mountain here Mons Jovis; in the Middle Ages, the Pass was Mont-Joux. Use those names to research very early material.

Here:
1. The Pass on the Swiss side; the Monastery at the Summit
2. An accident there - no injuries, and not ours. But no tow truck available, either.
3. The Saint Bernard dogs;
4.  Napoleon
5.  The Black Madonna image in the monastery; and excerpts from Legends of the Madonna
..................................

1.  The Pass

.
Don't take the tunnel.  Cross  the big one, the Gran San Bernardo, the Great Saint Bernard Pass.
.
Our route:  South to north.  We went from Italy, at Aosta, in Italy; to Switzerland, at Martigny.  Napoleon crossed in the opposite direction -  from Martigny, in Switzerland;  to Aosta, in Italy. Same road.


You need to be prepared show your passport at the summit, because Switzerland is not part of the border-checkpoint-free European Union. The EU. 
.



Probably the monastery here was not founded by St. Bernard, because of conflicting date records (the founding if at 950 was 130 years before his death in 1081, or some such), see ://www.vtliving.com/saintbernards/index.shtml/;  but no mind. The Pass was named in the 16th Century. 

 2.  The small accident.

Car and motorcycle.  Somehow, though, the rear end of the car went over the edge. No injuries. But the passage remaining was so narrow, and there are no tow trucks up there, so in the bustle nobody checked passports or vehicles for a long time. Surrounded by EU countries, why doesn't Switzerland just join up and let us through all the time. Why? Because they make money making us change our money from Euros or Dollars into Swiss Francs.  Give a Euro, and they may take it, but they will give change in Swiss Francs and charge the conversion fee.

.
.

3.  The Saint Bernard dogs. 

Rescue dog needed. Rescue dog needed.  Here is one:  a Saint Bernard, right there. They were bred by monks at the summit, see a history of them at ://www.vtliving.com/saintbernards/index.shtml The monastery could not afford to maintain them on their own any longer, and we understand that a benevolent fine lady bought them all and supports them, including handlers, bringing them to the mountain for all of us to enjoy. Other groups have also stepped up to save the Saint Bernards from breed dissipation, example ://www.saintrescue.org/

  Saint Bernard rescue dog, Great Saint Bernard Pass, Italy

That is not the offending motorcycle of accident fame.  Now - Look closely, there on the mountainside. There are more of the old breed, the Saint Bernard dogs, out for exercise. Listen. They are being very loud about it.

Saint Bernard rescue dogs, Gran San Bernardo Pass, Italy. Exercising, with handlers.

The Saint Bernard dog.  Where is the little keg flask?


 4.  Who else passed this way?  Napoleon and 30,000 of his closest friends.


History: who succeeds, who finds the route, who learns the secrets of survival in nearly impossible conditions, and manages to pass them on.This pass has served for millennia.

There is no note of Napoleon on the Italian side.  Only the Swiss, because he prevailed in battles against the Italians, probably.  Is that so? The Swiss love Napoleon; and feature his army crossing in illustrations and hats by the side of the road.  Italy? You would never know that the hatted, hand-inside-vest one, ever passed this way.  The Swiss side so happily exploits Napoleon, we expected to see a halo over the hat.

.
On the Italian side, find no reference to Napoleon. To victors, the spin.

5.  The  Black Madonna, a copy of an original now at Czestochowa, Poland

The most famous Black Madonna is at the Jasna Gora Monastery, here at the summit of the Gran San Bernardo.  Did the original pass this way on its way up to Poland? There are several Black Madonna representations and original at Jasna Gora Monastery at Czestochowa, Poland, and this is one that is seen there.  See Poland Road Ways, Czestochowa Black Madonna.  Scroll down to the second image.


What is the history of the Black Madonnas.  They appear in many places in Europe and Central and South America. Here is some information, an author's views from the 19th Century, in this free e-book, Legends of the Madonna, 1860 and 1881, at ://infomotions.com/etexts/gutenberg/dirs/1/2/0/4/12047/12047.htm/.  The author is a Mrs. Jameson, 1794-1860. We know no more about her, yet.

Here are passages attempting to explain the theme in that 19th Century book:

It is curious that, hand in hand with this development of taste and
feeling in the appreciation of natural sentiment and beauty, and
this tendency to realism, we find the associations of a peculiar and
specific sanctity remaining with the old Byzantine type. This arose
from the fact, always to be borne in mind, that the most ancient
artistic figure of the Madonna was a purely theological symbol;
apparently the moral type was too nearly allied to the human and
the real to satisfy faith. It is the ugly, dark-coloured, ancient
Greek Madonnas, such as this, which had all along the credit of
being miraculous; and "to this day," says Kugler, "the Neapolitan
lemonade-seller will allow no other than a formal Greek Madonna, with
olive-green complexion and veiled head, to be set up in his booth." It
is the same in Russia. Such pictures, in which there is no attempt
at representation, real or ideal, and which merely have a sort of
imaginary sanctity and power, are not so much idols as they are mere
_Fetishes_. The most lovely Madonna by Raphael or Titian would not
have the same effect. Guido, who himself painted lovely Virgins,
went every Saturday to pray before the little black _Madonna della
Guardia_, and, as we are assured, held this old Eastern relic in
devout veneration.
We have not yet found that particular black Madonna della Guardia. Do a find for "black" and this passage appears about 3/4 inch down the scroll bar. 
Continue to the next occurrence of "black" and find the author's view further:
Because some of the Greek pictures and carved images had become black
through extreme age, it was argued by certain devout writers, that the
Virgin herself must have been of a very dark complexion; and in favour
of this idea they quoted this text from the Canticles, "I am black,
but comely, O ye daughters of Jerusalem." But others say that her
complexion had become black only during her sojourn in Egypt. At all
events, though the blackness of these antique images was supposed to
enhance their sanctity, it has never been imitated in the fine arts,
and it is quite contrary to the description of Nicephorus, which is
the most ancient authority, and that which is followed in the Greek
school.
So, this work has its own explanation, and rejection.

The next reference is to an artwork with a black servingwoman behind Mary. Would that be Sara la Kali?

10. We will now turn to a conception altogether different, and equally
a masterpiece; it is the small but exquisitely finished composition
by Rembrandt. (Grosvenor Gal.) The scene is the garden in front of
the house of Zacharias; Elizabeth is descending the steps in haste
to receive and embrace with outstretched arms the Virgin Mary, who
appears to have just alighted from her journey. The aged Zacharias,
supported by a youth, is seen following Elizabeth to welcome their
guest. Behind Mary stands a black female attendant, in the act of
removing a mantle from her shoulders; in the background a servant,
or (as I think) Joseph, holds the ass on which Mary has journeyed; a
peacock with a gem-like train, and a hen with a brood of chickens (the
latter the emblem of maternity), are in the foreground. Though the
representation thus conceived appears like a scene of every-day life,
nothing can be more poetical than the treatment, more intensely true
and noble than the expression of the diminutive figures, more masterly
and finished than the execution, more magical and lustrous than the
effect of the whole. The work of Albertinelli, in its large and solemn
beauty and religious significance, is worthy of being placed over an
altar, on which we might offer up the work of Rembrandt as men offer
incense, gems, and gold.
Continue the "find" and there is Black Balthazar, the Ethopian King as the author identifies him, with his train borne by a white page, to signify equality of the races, she says.  So, vet your sources, see if you agree, see what is objective fact, if anything, and what is authorly surmise and wishful thinking. Always interesting, not always reliable, is that so? Couldn't Balthazar, even if black (is that Biblical, be from elsewhere?)

Find a website on Black Madonnas from the University of Dayton at ://campus.udayton.edu/mary/resources/blackm/blackm03.html

Now:  go to the first half of the way over, from Italy, at Italy Road Ways, Italian Side, Alps, Gran San Bernardino.

FN 1
We came from the south, Aosta on the Italian side, toward Martigny on the Swiss side, through the Gran San Bernardo Pass - abbreviated as GSB on the green road signs, on the highways. Note that the Gran San Bernardo  is different from the less taxing Bernardino Pass.

For the lesser San Bernardino, see ://www.planetware.com/switzerland/san-bernardino-pass-road-ch-gr-spr.htm/  That lower, and easier, San Bernardino Pass, has had its place in enabling ordinary people to cross over, but has not been pivotal in history, as has the Great Saint Bernard.

Wednesday, November 4, 2009

The Swiss-Liechtenstein border. Happy Talk. For some.

Enjoyed your Alpine wonders in Switzerland, the bucolic views, the moos and cowbells at your car window when you stop in mountain farm areas off the tourist track. Enjoyed your myths of William Tell, and wallowing in Heidi. Now, to the real world in Liechtenstein, where the Zurich gnomes send their customers when the trail gets hot from other countries' IRS equivalents. Now we hear that Liechtenstein also is naming names, nonetheless, have some fun, according to your standards.



Coming soon to a post near you:  closeups and a family joke with Dan leaping out of the car, still in Switzerland here, heading to the little red house ....

As long as you are enjoying yourself, and about to make some money across the border, who cares. Is that it? Is that so? Does it last? Does anyone care?

Tuesday, October 20, 2009

Maienfeld - Heidi, Grandather and Goats. Johanna Spyri's Book.

Then, finally, from Altdorf, over the Klausen Pass, and then some, find Maienfeld. The place and people that inspired the Heidi story, by Johanna Spyri. (1807-1901).  We were told that there was a real child whose life broadly was the pattern for Heidi. And she lived here. In this house, at this little farm, at this little hamlet.  If that were so, we would have found some corroboration?  So far, none.

There is a road just outside, and some outbuildings. Arrive by car across the pasture, park rather far away, walk a narrow path all the way across, with the views, wildflowers, smells, sounds, and you are there. Feeling very Heidi-ish.

Goats everywhere.  This one will follow if you go Mnahhh mnnnnaahhh.






Goats everywhere, Heidi House, Maienfeld, Switzerland

Also chickens. And some ducks.

Grandfather's and Heidi's House, Maienfeld, Switzerland (same goat - still following)


Grandfather's little house up the slope, is a good way up a mountainside, but not hard to walk, we heard.  We were in the car.  Walks are nice, but then walks require the walk back, and there goes the whole afternoon.

But road signs for cars are not helpful.

Most people seem to come by train, and take a taxi or a long walk up the mountain to the Heidi House, as it is called. By car, simply give up on the map, go to the railway station, and pretend you are walking.  Follow those signs.



Museum,Grandfather's house, kitchen, Maienfeld, Switzerland



Shed, and 1930's caretakers' cottage beyond, Heidi House, Maienfeld, Switzerland

There is a sizable residence built in the 1930's and we understand it is for the caretakers - tending the animals, overseeing the museum and shop, and all that go with being famous.  Just turn your head away and pretend it is not there.





Fave Goat. Heidi House, Maienfeld, Switzerland.

Mnaaaahhhh. Mmmmmnnnnaaaaah.

Johanna Spyri, the author of Heidi, remains largely a mystery.  She died a widow, but ordered that all her correspondence be destroyed at her death. See http://www.swissinfo.ch/eng/archive.html?siteSect=883&sid=742902&ty=st/. She had children, they died, as did her husband, and none of her other works attained the popularity of Heidi.  She is buried in Zurich. See ://www.online-literature.com/spyri/

Monday, October 19, 2009

Maypole - Klausen Pass - Altdorf (William Tell) to Maienfeld (Heidi). MAYPOLE.


The route:  Starting from Altdorf, aiming for Maienfeld.  From William Tell on the lake (who wasn't) to Heidi in the Alps, whose story at least some say was inspired by the life of a real person.

And on the way toward the Klausen Pass was this Maypole.

This is the only one we saw in Switzerland.  There had been many in Germany. See Germany Road Ways, Maypoles.

The series of passes from Altdorf to Maienfeld do take time - see the views at Passes: Brunigen, Susten, Sarnen, Klausen.  Next time we would not rely on seeing Switzerland west to east, but north-south, like a cardiogram. We had to hurry at the end of the trip, using the autobahn, but would not have missed these views.

Important:  Gas up.

Drive back down if you have to to find a station if you forget.  There are automated gas stations occasionally, no attendant, just the pump and slots for money in the more remote areas. Until those are familiar, don't try them. Stop only if someone else is there to help the first time, just in case.

Kilometers vs. Miles Per Hour. Speed conversions.

Speed conversions. Rules of the Road.

Take traffic rules seriously, and expect them to be enforced.  See ://www.ricksteves.com/graffiti/helpline/index.cfm/rurl/topic/23345/foreign-traffic-lawsamerican-scofflaws.html/  Computers now make pursuit by mail likely, so they say.

There will always be something unknown, like Austria's law that cars must contain a reflector vest in case of accident, as the Rick Steves site says, but that will be no excuse.

.
To avoid trouble, memorize for each country the speed limits applicable to every type of situation. There is radar there, just as here. Get accustomed to the mental changeover from 58 kmh to 38 mph or so.

Use the easy converters before you leave, as at ://www.calculateme.com/Speed/KilometersperHour/ToMilesperHour.htm/

You will find that the speeds are not so different from ours, even on the autobahns - although those seem to get ignored more. For example, 100 kmh on an autobahn is just 62 mph. Those whizzing by at what looks like 140 in kmh are getting more up there - 87.

Do not expect speeds to be posted.  Do not expect the pay-kiosks to be easily visible, or even on that particular block side.  Prepare to walk to look for it.  Trust no apparent-freebie spot.

Tuesday, October 13, 2009

Altdorf and Burglen: William Tell Country

William Tell: Apple on the Son's Head. 
An Oppressor. 
Fabulous Shot Splitting the Apple, Not the Son's Head. 
Fiction or Fact?

.
William Tell! Who dares question the story.  His own town does. So:  Get there.  Up and back the switchbacks, higher, higher, pass the last snowfield, and melt-lake in the Alps. 

Alpine snowfield, glacier, Switzerland

Pass another lovely chalet.

Chalet, Switzerland

See another beautiful Alpine village.

Alpine village, Switzerland

And arrive at ... Altdorf. Think the William Tell Overture.  Now - quick.  Open your window so you can turn up the volume, and go toYoutube at ://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6TOW_4TXJ2Q/  Got it?  Turn up the volume even more.  This is Rossini, folks. It's only 3 minutes.  You can listen and watch that long.  Riccardo Muti conducting.

And this is ... Altdorf!

Altdorf, Switzerland. William Tell and Son, statue, center square

Just up the road is Burglen, the smaller village that claims William Tell as its own.


Stay at the William Tell Hotel, but take your earplugs.  This is the bell-tower and the view of it from our window.  It gongs every quarter hour.

Burglen, Church Bell Tower at night, Switzerland.  Bong.


See a live videotaping of the sport of flagging. These swirled about for a length of time. There is William Tell on the pedestal. Was this a holiday?


Burglen, Switzerland, flaggers flagging

Next to the church is a graveyard where people's occupations are carved instead of dull stone headstones.

Church graveyard, carved markers, Burglen, Switzerland

Wake up to the view.

Alpine view, Burglen, William Tell Hotel

The view changes every few minutes.


Burglen Alps view, from William Tell Hotel

Here, we are told,  is the mother of little Boy Tell, and wife of William.

Sculpture, Mrs. William Tell, and son, pre-apple anxiety

And the museum that houses the documents (or copies? they looked original, but hard to tell) that have anything to do with William Tell and the story. 


William Tell Museum, Burglen, Switzerland, old print

Reread the story, FN 1.  The problem is, there is no documentation for it.  There is nothing in any contemporary record of his birth, life, events, the arrow, the apple.  There is no real William Tell.


What? No William Tell?? Burglen, Switzerland acknowledges.

It was only a century later that, given events at that later time, it became important to show roots of Swiss independence, of cantons banding together to oppose oppression (here by the Habsburgs of Austria who had moved south).  William Tell evolved in the public consciousness as embodying all the virtues they needed, and wanted to believe had been really in one person. 

Graveyard, Burglen, Switzerland. Individualized. Add some legends here ....

Back to the lovely graveyard.  Sometimes people die, but the stories that people need to believe, live on or get created if they were not there to begin with. 

William, you never were; but tell that to the angels. See http://www.nytimes.com/1994/03/30/world/lausanne-journal-the-swiss-debunk-william-tell-and-all-that.html/. We want our overture. Read the story at ://www.mainlesson.com/display.php?author=baldwin&book=fifty&story=tell/  How can you not believe? Don't tell me about debunk. No way.

This is like Robin Hood. Go to Nottingham. There they do have record books, but with dozens, if not a hundred, Robin Hoods (the John Doe name of the time) for any unknown miscreant, whose exploits were eventually attributed to one RobinhoodRobinhoodRidingthroughtheglen ....

Back to Rossini.
Ba-da-bump, Ba-da-bump, Ba-da BUMP BUMP BUMP
__________________
FN 1.  The William Tell Story, retold

Who was he?  We all think we know.

We think apples on heads, oppression by invaders, a strong father who would not bow to the foreign ruler's hat up there on the pole. The penalty:  shoot the apple off your son's head, with a crossbow. A distraught mother. The child at the tree, the bowshot, yes! the apple splits and the child lives!

It gets better. The Bailiff sees a second arrow in Tell's quiver. What is this second arrow, asks Gessler, the Bailiff of Uri, the foreign oppressor for the Habsburgs, Austrian variety.


It was for you if I had missed, hisses Tell.

Arrest him! They do.

They put him, tied, in a boat to go across the lake. Storm. Only William can save them. Untie him so he can help! They do, he does, and escapes, only to return another time and kill the evil Bailiff Gessler. Or mayor. Whatever. See ://www.1911encyclopedia.org/William_Tell/

Yes, say the Swiss, recalling. Independence, no bowing to foreign rule. We are Swiss. The cantons were stirred to band together with the story and the rest is history - the Swiss federation, the Confederation Helvetia (Helvetii, the original tribes), CH on the license plates, Switzerland.