Maienfeld - Heidi, Grandather and Goats. Johanna Spyri's Book.

Then, finally, from Altdorf, over the Klausen Pass, and then some, find Maienfeld. The place and people that inspired the Heidi story, by Johanna Spyri. (1807-1901).  We were told that there was a real child whose life broadly was the pattern for Heidi. And she lived here. In this house, at this little farm, at this little hamlet.  If that were so, we would have found some corroboration?  So far, none.

There is a road just outside, and some outbuildings. Arrive by car across the pasture, park rather far away, walk a narrow path all the way across, with the views, wildflowers, smells, sounds, and you are there. Feeling very Heidi-ish.

Goats everywhere.  This one will follow if you go Mnahhh mnnnnaahhh.

Maienfeld, Heidi House, Switzerland

Goats everywhere, Heidi House, Maienfeld, Switzerland

Also chickens. And some ducks.

Grandfather's and Heidi's House, Maienfeld, Switzerland (same goat - still following)


Grandfather's little house up the slope, is a good way up a mountainside, but not hard to walk, we heard.  We were in the car.  Walks are nice, but then walks require the walk back, and there goes the whole afternoon.

But road signs for cars are not helpful.

Most people seem to come by train, and take a taxi or a long walk up the mountain to the Heidi House, as it is called. By car, simply give up on the map, go to the railway station, and pretend you are walking.  Follow those signs.



Museum,Grandfather's house, kitchen, Maienfeld, Switzerland



Shed, and 1930's caretakers' cottage beyond, Heidi House, Maienfeld, Switzerland

There is a sizable residence built in the 1930's and we understand it is for the caretakers - tending the animals, overseeing the museum and shop, and all that go with being famous.  Just turn your head away and pretend it is not there.

The Necessary, Heidi's Grandfather's House, Maienfeld, Switzerland

Fave Goat. Heidi House, Maienfeld, Switzerland.

Mnaaaahhhh. Mmmmmnnnnaaaaah.

Johanna Spyri, the author of Heidi, remains largely a mystery.  She died a widow, but ordered that all her correspondence be destroyed at her death. See http://www.swissinfo.ch/eng/archive.html?siteSect=883&sid=742902&ty=st/. She had children, they died, as did her husband, and none of her other works attained the popularity of Heidi.  She is buried in Zurich. See ://www.online-literature.com/spyri/

Passes: Brunigen, Susten, Sarnen, Klausen, Saanen

Getting There

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There are always the autobahns between major hub cities, much like a tinkertoy setup. The passes here are not autobahn routes - these are cross-country, switchbacks, sometimes one lane, or 1 1/2 lanes, with a lay-by for passing.

I.  Brunigen, Susten and Sarnen Passes

These will take you roughly from Bern to Altdorf, where resides the legend of William Tell.

Susten Pass, Switzerland

Even on a level place, do not expect to make time. In fog, listen for the cowbells.

Susten Pass, refuge hut; or monitor hut; or a herder's summer home? at top

There is often a tiny community of little houses built into the mountainside at the tops of most serious passes.

Tops of Swiss passes: weather changes fast

These are passes that can accommodate two-lane traffic most of the time, if everyone goes slow, and creeps around the corners.  The sharpest corners may have an extended part of paving at that corner.

Where the pass is one-lane, there will be a reasonable lay-by in view, most of the time, where one of you will tuck in while the other slides by.  Be prepared for mirrors to click.

Find these if you go the route from Lucerne to Altdorf that travels down from the west side of Lake Lucerne.  The safer route is down the east side, but you will not know that until you are committed - the main road just stops on the west side, leaving you to maneuver about.  Not to worry.  We learned to believe the map - if the line stops, it stops. Susten Pass: The Stein Glacier is up there, and a lake called the Steinsee.

2.  Klausen Pass:

The Klausen Pass will take you from Altdorf (William Tell) to Maienfeld (Heidi)

Do a Bing topographical search for Klausen Pass and see what this is like.

A mere road map will not do. Start at Altdorf there, and then scroll over the vast expanse to Maienfeld, north of Chur. Better yet, search for Maienfeld, and then expand outward until Altdorf shows. All switchbacks, mountaintops, then a flat valley and D.C. al fine. :||.

Refuge, rescue or herder's hut? Klausen Pass, Switzerland

Community, monitor or herders' huts, perhaps refuge, Klausen Pass, Switzerland



At roadside, steep, cows by car window, Klausen Pass, Switzerland

Stop the car and hear the cowbells. Longer. 

View down, Klausen Pass, Switzerland

Huts at top, Klausen Pass, Switzerland

Valley, Klausen Pass, Switzerland

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3.  Saanen Pass.

A somewhat lower pass or series of passes takes you from Montreux to Interlaken, with a lovely valley at Gstaad - famous ski resort. Looking for the name of the pass.  The town of Saanen is there.

For an idea of the terrain, read this 1867 account of Saanen (the pass could be the Saanen Col or Saanen Pass, partially) to Sion, an end-point more to the south. 

• Go to A Handbook for Travellers In Switzerland at page 138, Route 41, by John Murray, who went by horse.  See this Google book at http://books.google.com/books?id=NwANAAAAYAAJ&pg=RA1-PA138&lpg=RA1-PA138&dq=Saanen+pass&source=bl&ots=aFyKRhoDFf&sig=dgxVO6wNi7VyVnhdlcJJOmfqL_g&hl=en&ei=F0HdSozCC4ri8Aapy7xi&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=2&ved=0CBAQ6AEwAQ#v=onepage&q=Saanen%20pass&f=false.

• Scroll to the next page for Route 42 and see what looks like ours exactly:  his Thun to Vevay, our Montreux (next to Vevey) to Thun, north of Interlaken. This book, at least in excerpts, is a must-read, a time capsule of travel 150 years ago:  horseback, by foot, on or with mules, chairs with bearers (keep reading for a few pages further), carriage with 6-9 seats takes 9 hours Vevey to Thun. Inns, mineral waters, cheeses.
  

 Byron called this route "as beautiful as a dream."  See the Murray book at 141.

Saanen Pass, high pasture, Switzerland

Is it true that the uphill legs of Alpine cows are shorter than the downhill?

Roofs nestle into hillsides, Saanen Pass, Switzerland

This possibly is part of the Klausen, not the Saanen. This looks milder, so we think Saanen.

John Murray calls the mountainnat the Montreux or Vevey end of the route, by the French, the Dent de Jaman. Would that be Tooth of Jaman? The profile of the mountain looks like the view from Montreux or Vevey looking east.  See ://www.randonnee-pedestre.ch/index.php?marche=dent-de-jaman&site=montagne/